Hutongs (a Mongolian word meaning "water well" - many homes like this were built around wells thus providing a constant source of water) are the traditional living arrangement in Beijing. They are courtyard style houses clumped together that make a maze of alleyways leading from one Hutong to another. To the untrained (i.e. western) eye it does look like a mess of houses surrounded by walls, with access to a particular courtyard only possible by first having to negotiate the labyrinth successfully.

Like many things in China, however, the design of Hutongs is based around the principles of Feng Shui. The entrance to each Hutong is at the south-eastern corner, the main hall (usually reserved for the eldest of the family) will generally be the most northerly building and plenty of walls should be in place around the courtyard to keep out spirits, which are apparently unable to turn corners.

A stroll through these Hutongs is an excellent way to find out more about Beijing as it was only about 10-15 years ago (as long as precautions are taken, such as tying a ball of twine to a tree before venturing into the sprawling corridors so that it's possible to find a way out again - thank you, Theseus for that tip). The local residents are polite and courteous, most of them attempting to say hello in English and smiling at the funny westerner marvelling at their places of residence. Some of them will even try to sell tourists a rickshaw ride around the back alleys. Small markets selling fresh fruit and vegetables can be found in seemingly rundown, broken old buildings which actually turn out to be the homes of the stall owners. Holes in the wall often turn out to be little eateries selling noodle and rice dishes or dumplings, the smells of which waft enticingly through the tangle of backstreets creating a menagerie of aromas which really tickle the taste buds. Small shops and convenience stores are frequently housed in crumbling buildings that no one, not even the Government, seems to want to do anything about.

The Government, in fact, does more than not help the upkeep and general maintenance of the Hutongs and their varied homes and businesses. It is actively trying to destroy them all. In an effort to move into the 21st century, Beijing is trying to turn itself into a city rivalling Shanghai or Hong Kong for contemporary skyscrapers. Despite its great rivalries with both cities (particularly Shanghai) Beijing appears to be trying desperately to become them. The Hutongs are being systematically bought by the Government, torn down and replaced with high rise buildings for offices, shopping malls and apartments. Presently, over 600 Hutongs are destroyed per year and if this trend continues, there will be no evidence of old Beijing left at all.

Now, a lot of people might think that this is not all that bad, and to a certain extent they'd be correct. The high rise buildings are carefully designed and constructed and each has a different look, creating a landscape that may one day match that of London and New York. Modern, well built tower blocks can house far more people than the Hutong style of living, will create a far better quality of living, and with Beijing's ever increasing population it will certainly help to provide more accommodation for the masses. This is coming at a price, though. Modernisation is all well and good but it should never be done at the expense of history and heritage. Imagine if some of the old, beautiful listed buildings of London were suddenly destroyed because they did not fit with the Governments idea of how the city should look. It's all very sad and it's made even worse by the means taken to accomplish this mission.

The Chinese Government is invoking a forced buy principle. The residents of the Hutongs are offered a fair price for their properties (I suppose that's more than some Governments have done when forcibly relocating its citizens) and the residents are then given two weeks to find somewhere else to live before the bulldozers come calling. Should the family have not found anywhere within the allotted time (and let's face it, there is a large chance they might not have, two weeks is not long at all to find an alternative place to live) then the wrecking balls will still knock on their door. A simple stroll around some of the Hutongs will uncover plenty of evidence of people still living in semi-destroyed houses, with walls and roofs no longer there and the rooms open for all to see into. Set against a backdrop of brand new skyscrapers these broken old homes look forlorn and depressing but this doesn't often show on the faces of those living there.

It does appear, though, that the Government has cottoned on to the fact that in their fervour to make a thoroughly modern capital, a great part of Beijing's history will soon be forever gone. They have therefore decided that certain Hutongs can remain in the heart of the city and have taken measures to make sure that these Hutongs are clean, well maintained and lively. One in particular has been given the name "Cultural Street" and while this is a nice place to visit and take a leisurely stroll around, it's been redeveloped to such an extent that it gives a false impression of Hutongs as they actually were.

The Beijingers themselves seem to think that 2008 will finally see the end of Hutong living in Beijing. Whether they will all be gone by the time the Olympics comes around remains to be seen, but for anyone that wants a glimpse of history in one of the great capital cities of the world, time is running out.